Kampung Cina Walkabout, Part 1

Jalan Kampung Cina though Jalan Kampung Tiong

20100 Kuala Terengganu

We parked our car at a parking area in front of The Store department store (kind sounds redundant, don’t you think?) and made up our minds to walk the entire length of Jalan Kampung Cina, or as far as we could go with very little stamina.

First up, we walked past the cluster of food stalls in Jalan Kampung Tiong that houses both Malay and Chinese cuisine. Fancy having both in one food court, you won’t find any such thing in the West Coast mind you. This used to be our go-to place for breakfast each Friday morning after Mass.

the Chinese stalls to the right

the Malay stalls to the left

this is new to us

We then headed down Jalan Kampung Cina where familiar sights greeted us.

the rebuilt Ho Ann Kiong Temple

cobbled street?

that's new too

secure!

is it hiding a CCTV?

Along with familiar sights, we encountered new additions to Kampung Cina as well:

a phone booth?

world heritage lane

definitely new

found everywhere these days

though the baseball bat/lock looks out of place

down memory lan

in case it rains

We met a companion during our walk...

"hello there"

"where you headed to?"

"I'm nearby if you need assistance"

Kampung Cina still manages to retain its old charm while looking newly refurbished (is that an accurate term?) as well.

murals

these used to face the river front, I think

Brendan loves all things dilapidated

Sin Phing Siang up ahead

a gentle stream?

dark clouds are a coming

headed back to our car

still plenty of development to be done

the iconic archway

you're a long way off, my friend?

ah, I see... turtle alley

wish they had bicycles for rent here

All that walking has made us hungry, so we've off for some Chicken Rice. We walked along what we consider to the the front portion of Kampung Cina, so we've made it a point to come back tomorrow to walk the back portion, or what's called Kampung Warisan.

Sin Phin Siang

Jalan Kampung Cina

20100 Kuala Terengganu

Coordinates: 5.334232, 103.133329

We woke up pretty early after a good night’s sleep and headed down to Kampung Cina (Chinatown) for breakfast.

Among the things we cannot find in Kuala Lumpur is a simple loaf of ¹Roti Paun (pronounced with two syllables, usually Pa-Ong or Pa-Ung).

¹little butter buns (literally?)

There’s a small quaint little coffee shop (albeit a little rundown) in Kampung Cina that stands right beside the bridge where the Terengganu river used to flow, before all that land reclamation. Its called Sin Phin Siang (we have no idea what it means) and it opens at the crack of dawn.

right proper local celebrities they are!

they've stood the test of time

ever ready with a smile

quaint (and a little rundown)

Brendan (as always) ordered his usual plate of ²Char Kueh Teow; Cat ordered the ³Mee Goreng while I had a bowl of ⁴Bee Hoon Soup.

Oh, and of course a serving of Roti Paun with its natural accompanying condiment, the inimitable ⁵Kaya.

²flat rice noodles stir-fried over very high heat with light and dark soy sauce, chili, a small quantity of belachan, and depending on the region usually with whole prawns, de-shelled cockles, bean sprouts, chopped Chinese chives and egg

³stir fried yellow egg noodles

⁴rice vermicelli soup

⁵coconut jam, a food spread or fruit curd made from a base of coconut milk, eggs and sugar

what Brendan had

Cat's Mee Goreng

my (very soy-saucy) Bee Hoon Soup

we're good to go

but of course!

Our bellies filled, we’re all fired up to go gallivanting!

very very old establishment

hard at work 

wok-king up a storm

And in case you’re wondering breakfast cost us no more than RM15.

Warong Norazila

Lot 2230, Jalan Sultan Mahmud

Kuala Ibai

20400 Kuala Terengganu

Coordinates: 5.285433, 103.168556

After the disappointment of this afternoon’s lunch at Gerai Alaina, we went back to our room to sulk (kidding). We had a good nap and awoke late in the evening.

I had a hankering for ¹Nasi Dagang, and at this hour where else would I head to but Warong Norazila?

¹rice steamed in coconut milk

we're back!

everything's the same as it was last year

me tummy's growling

there's magic

can you smell the rice cookin'?

Last year thanks to the internet and some persistent research I managed locate the two sisters selling their Nasi Dagang at Simpang Tokku, which is now run by their nieces nieces and other assortment of relatives.

Enough with the yapping.

Brendan started out with a bowl of ²Kueh Tiaw Soup; Cat began proceedings with a plate of ³Nasi Minyak with ⁴Gulai Daging (Beef) while I had (what else) the Nasi Dagang with Gulai Ikan Tongkol (Tuna).

²ricecake strips

³rice flavoured with whole dried spices

⁴rich, spicy and succulent curry-like sauce

what Brendan had

what Cat had

what I had (of course!)

Is that all you ask? Heck no! Cat then ordered the ⁵Nasi Kerabu while I went for the ⁶Nasi Kunyit (or Pulut Kuning as its called in the West Coast) with Gulai Ikan Tongkol (Tuna).

⁵blue-coloured rice served with dried fish, anchovies, fish crackers, pickles and other salads

⁶ glutinous rice soaked with turmeric powder and tamarind skins, usually overnight

nasi kerabu

nasi kunyit

For some reason Brendan did not fancy a second round, but something tells me he’ll be hungry later on.

a bevy of beverages

As always we thoroughly and completely enjoyed our meal(s). And as though to soothe our heartache at being fleeced by Gerai Alaina earlier this afternoon the entire bill (with various freshly squeezed fruit juices) came to a mind-blowing RM21!

pretty quiet for a Thursday night, or were we early?

some offshoresmen (eh?) having dinner

So if you happen to be in the vicinity (and unlike Gerai Alaina) this establishment is very highly recommended. I've provided the GPS coordinates so please, help yourselves.

Gerai Alaina (Caveat Emptor!)

Medan Selera Batu Burok

20400 Kuala Terengganu

Coordinates: 5.320132, 103.154742

Feeling a little tired after the long drive from Kuala Lumpur, we decided not to venture too far off and settled for lunch at a foodcourt near the resort.

Without much thought we walked into the first stall selling mixed rice and helped ourselves to the dishes they had to offer.

our first authentic local meal

the first stall on the right

a variety of deep fried foods as well

Brendan had rice with fried chicken and a fried egg

while Cat and I both...

had fried fish, of course!

and a healthy helping of keropok lekor

There was a surprise in store when I went to pay for our meals. What we had, plus drinks totaled a whopping RM60+! That works out to about RM20 per person, which in our opinion is grossly overpriced. 

So if you're ever in the vicinity of Medan Selera Batu Buruk (which means Batu Burok Food Court) our gentle advice would be to steer clear of this stall located on the right. 

Merry Christmas! Here We Go (Again)

Intan Beach Resort

898-N Lorong Dato Jaya

Jalan Haji Busu, Batu Burok

20400 Kuala Terengganu

Coordinates: 5.318661, 103.156965

A hiatus is defined as a pause or break in continuity in a sequence or activity. Fancy talk for being lazy, and/or sticken by the illness called procrastination. Hopefully a dose of Christmas cheer will cure us of this prolonged hangover.

So here goes!

Its Christmas day 2014 and like last year we find ourselves back in Kuala Terengganu. After a leisurely drive up from Kuala Lumpur we proceeded to check in to our favourite budget beach resort.

South China Sea beckons

has it been a year already?

home for the next 5 days

a very blustery day

Soon as we're done checking in and unpacking, we'll be headed out for lunch.

Emancipation: An Explanation

It’s been a long while since our last post.

The reason(s) behind it are not so easy to put into words, but here goes…

I know someone who is a middle child of five siblings. Everyone seems to understand that when it comes to placement in a family that’s the worst place to be. Some think that the middle child simply gets forgotten for no reason; others believe that the eldest is the leader and the youngest is the baby, but the middle child has no real place.

How much of this is true? Possibly none of it and possibly all of it; but in the case of this person I know she grew up with little love from her parents, while all the time being resented by her siblings.

Each time she meets with her siblings all she gets from them is derision and scorn. There has not been a single occasion where her siblings have sung her praises or at the very least, have something nice to say to, or about her.

Yet for the love of her mother she puts up with it… up until a point.

Yes, she reached the point where she feels little more than garbage in the eyes of her siblings. A punching bag, a ball to be kicked around. She exists to do their bidding, no questions asked.

They kept her mother around when they felt she was useful; later when this was no longer the case and far from being useful her mother became a burden they looked for ways and means to ‘unload’ her.

When her mother raised all her siblings’ children (her nieces and nephews) she was kept; but now when she is no longer able to do so they want to push her away, and let it be someone else’s burden and responsibility?

That’s when she snapped, this person I know, and said enough is enough.

So when this person I know refuses to play ball with her siblings the gloves came off. Calls even came from a long distance away deriding her; reminding her of her duties and responsibilities while at the same time they began shirking away from theirs.

Then things got nasty; her siblings resorted to employing strong arm tactics. Using an uncle to call and rant at her. This was when she said, maybe it’s time she reconsiders her part in this ‘family’. So with a heavy heart and the support of those around her who truly love her she parted ways with her family. She sought emancipation.

Yes, it was cruel and unusual punishment but she never sought, did not expect and never got help raising Brendan from her mother. Yes, this person I know is the person I love with all of my heart and every fiber of my being. She is the mother of my child and as long as I live and breathe I will defend her decision to the end.

Cutting ties was easier said than done, not a mere changing of telephone numbers. They were determined to give her their collective ‘pieces of minds’. They stalked her and found ways and means to get at her, one way or another. This was when our blog posts stopped.

So dearest KJ, KS and KMF, if you do stumble upon this post please understand that despite your hollow assertions that you love your sister she never once felt nor received it. If you have not once uttered the words “I love you” then you have not once loved her. She has been bullied and pushed around for the last time, and if you so choose come and have words with me instead.

Her birthday is coming up in two weeks’ time. In honour of her spirit, gaiety and cheerfulness in the face of adversity I will restart our photo-travel-blog.

Wish us luck.